Trip Report: Laos' Phou Hin Poun National Biodiversity Conservation Area

Words and pictures by Tam Do

On 17 February I took a road trip from Vietnam to Phou Hin Poun National Biodiversity Conservation Area in Laos to learn about wildlife and birds there for the first time. It was still cold and sometimes rainy in my city but it was completely different in Phou Hin Poun - cold at night but sunny and hot in the daytime. The landscape and the low humidity makes the weather here extreme to humans and animals.

After a day driving from the South of Laos, I finally arrived at a famous hotspot called The Rock View Point. Located in a limestone karst forest, the temperature felt cool, yet the heat from the limestone under the sun all day would not be easy, even for an outdoorsman like myself. The view of the landscape at this place is stunning, with jungle surrounding rocky mountains. There are zipline cables among the peaks, and almost everyone here comes for an adrenaline rush from rock climbing and ziplining.

I soon realized this was probably not the best way to look for birds. The forest canopy was so high that I felt I might break my neck staring upward before spotting anything. I decided to head back to the hotel headquarters and quickly checked the hotspot map. I noticed a system of suspension bridges connecting the rocky hills, allowing visitors to walk above the forest and look out over the surrounding landscape.

This was exactly what I needed.

Within ten minutes of walking along the bridges, around 4 p.m., the first birds appeared. A few Black-crested Bulbuls welcomed me, perching on branches both near and far. Their eyes looked incredibly sharp and bright. Suddenly everything felt clear — I was finally in my favorite zone.

Soon after, two… then three… and eventually four Sooty Babblers appeared, hopping along the railings and between branches while searching for food. They seemed completely unafraid of my presence. I felt grateful for that moment, as it suggested bird hunting here might not be as intense as in my city, where birds are usually much more wary of people.

From deeper in the rocky forest I could hear the resonant call of a barbet. Then, almost suddenly, two birds landed on a nearby tree — a Blue-eared Barbet and a Green-eared Barbet, perched only a few meters apart. The tree seemed to be a favorite feeding spot. I also noticed Crimson Sunbirds feeding among the flowers, a Common Woodshrike quietly perched on a branch, and a Black-naped Monarch moving gracefully through the foliage.

For a moment I heard the sound of wings flapping right beside my ears. A flock of grey-colored birds suddenly landed on a nearby rock cliff, as if they had just returned home from a long trip. They immediately began calling and competing for space on a tree branch — an amusing and lively scene.

I quickly raised my camera to identify them. When I looked through the viewfinder, I was surprised to see that these birds had bare faces — completely featherless around the head. There were several of them together.

They were Bare-faced Bulbuls.








Before coming to Laos, I had read an article about this species, but now I had the chance to witness them in person. It was an incredible moment. The Bare-faced Bulbul was only officially described in 2009, making it one of the more recently recognized bird species.

Their unusual bald appearance is thought to be an adaptation to the harsh environment where they live. The rocky limestone habitat can become extremely hot, and the fruits they eat are often juicy and sticky. Having bare skin around the face may help them stay cleaner and maintain better hygiene while feeding.

Seeing this remarkable species so close in its natural habitat was truly unforgettable.

I spent the rest of the afternoon and sunset photographing the bulbuls. During that time, I also met a couple of bird photographers from French Guiana. They had been staying at this birding site for about twelve days, working on a photography project commissioned by the owner of the Rock Viewpoint complex.

Thanks to them, I also had the chance to see Laos Langurs, another remarkable species trying to survive in this harsh limestone environment. These primates usually appear only in the early morning or late afternoon, and spotting them requires a good amount of luck. However, if you spend three or four days here, the chances of seeing them become much higher.

It turned out to be a wonderful afternoon of birding and meeting passionate people who share the same interest in wildlife.

I have included the checklist of birds I recorded during this visit, and I hope more birders will have the opportunity to come here and experience this unique place — especially to see the incredible Bare-faced Bulbul, a species found only in Laos.

eBird Checklist - 18 Feb 2026 - Phou Pha Marn--The Rock Viewpoint - 10 species

Tam is a nature guide and wildlife photographer from Danang, and a member of Danang Bird Club. On most sunny days you will find him wandering around Son Tra Nature Reserve, Thu Bon River, Hoa Quy Wetlands, or My Son Sanctuary photographing/documenting birds and wildlife.